The Fall/Winter 2008-2009 collection will be unveiled tomorrow, Thursday, January 17th at 12:30 by GASPARD YURKIEVICH at Le Laboratoire in Paris. The Spirit of Yes presents to you here a sneak-peak of what this new collection has to offer. Photos of the imminent fashion show to come…
The new collection experiments with many complexities such as: concentration on masculine wardrobe classics in order to leave room for the clothing’s structural architecture; avoidance of colour’s duplicity by employing principally black and variations thereof. The collection is unified by the subtlety of the pleats and appliqué work, the sheen and matte finishes as well as the numerous possibilities offered by the luxurious fabrics.The silhouette for winter 2008 finds its inspiration in the Renaissance constructions. Intricately designed and structured torsos, which affirm force and masculinity, are paired with slim and sober legs. Pleats and cutouts, traditionally known to allow for ease and liberty of movement, are used here as elements which are at the same time decorative and structural, whether it be at the shoulders, elbows, torso or the length of the back.
For the first time, there is a near absence of colour and black predominates. This decision was made in order to focus on the volumes and to unify the collection. The concept’s predominant inspiration is British artist Anthony McCall, currently based in the United States of America and known for his Solid Light Film. The black is not disquieting but is used as a force that guides the play of lights. These bursts of light along the appliqué on the black surface give a sense of volume. A subtle shimmer establishes depth by reflecting light on the various textures and woven designs: jacquards, faux furs, lustrous and matte materials and even perforated or calendered cotton.
The inspiration for the collection’s title comes directly from Robert Mapplethorpe’s Polaroids book. His photographic work draws its strength from the gentle balance between the classicism evoked and the intensity that his creations emit.
The masculine wardrobe basics are reworked, from the smoking jacket to the trench, the duffle coat to the bomber jacket. Even grand and classic materials themselves are revisited: cashmere, cotton, blackwatch, wool gabardine… Select shirts have front panels, revive the button-down and find structure in a back pleat or tacking at the hips. These designs experiment with the traditional stripes and plaids. In contrast, the trousers remain constant in maintaining the same volume. The various appliqué work and pleats alone structure the shape in a subtle manner. The tailored overalls benefit from the gracefulness of a braided wool cord streaming down the side of the leg. The sock collection completes the outfit and adds an element of illusion by giving the impression of a double sock, all in preserving the comfort and cultivation of the mercerized thread, cashmere and silk. The winter 2008 shoe collection emphasizes derbies and low boots and is available in the following combinations: patent leather, printed crocodile and satin, black and faux black. The hat, a hybrid of the cap and classic hat, was designed in collaboration with Elvis Pompilio. Worn slightly tipped, the silhouette’s refinement is complete.
Wagner’s classical compositions accompany this elegant silhouette to the limit of excentricity.
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